CHOOSE SOPHIA'S GROTTO IN ROZZIE SQUARE

Roslindale Square has certainly come a long way. It has become more of a destination that its counterparts in Brookline or even Jamaica Plain. It is a wnderful combination f the old and new. There are stil the seven grat ethnic bakeries. They have been joined by Michael Sherlock's aggresively curated ine store, the Village Market, with fine ambiance and selection and a nasty manager, and the sometimes struggling boutiques and gift shops on Birch St. It also has sme realy good neighborhod bistros, well desighned, good food and reasonable prices: Gusto's, Delphino's, the Village Sushi and Fish, and the Birch Street istro.

Now comes Sophia's Grotto, an utterly charming Italian/Mediterranean restaurant. Part of its charm is that its only means of access is through a courtyard off Birch St. With wood ovens, an intimate scale, and a perhaps too overly eager staff, it offers a relaxing and fulfilling casual dining experience. There are a few Italian movie posters around, and a book of photos of Sophia Loren, after whom this is presumably named. But the menu is distinctive, and with no entree over $l9.00, it's hard to go wrong.